Section 2 · Factors Affecting the Style, Quality and Price of Wine
Common Elements in Winemaking and Maturation
Once grapes arrive at the winery, a new set of decisions begins. This chapter covers the winemaking processes and maturation choices that are common to virtually all styles of wine, from alcoholic fermentation to oak ageing to bottling. Later chapters (8–10) cover the specifics of white, red, rosé, sweet, and sparkling winemaking, but this chapter lays the foundation you need for all of them.
The Winemaking Process: A Bird’s-Eye View
Winemaking Process Flow
At its simplest, winemaking follows this sequence:
- 1. Grapes arrive at the winery: they may be sorted, destemmed, and/or crushed
- 2. Alcoholic fermentation: yeast converts sugar in the grape juice into alcohol and CO₂
- 3. Post-fermentation processing: may include malolactic fermentation, pressing (for reds), racking
- 4. Maturation: the wine is aged in a vessel (tank, barrel, amphora) for a period of time
- 5. Clarification and stabilisation: the wine is fined, filtered, and/or cold-stabilised
- 6. Blending: different lots may be combined to create the final wine
- 7. Bottling: the wine is sealed and prepared for sale
Not every wine goes through every step, and the order can vary. But this is the general framework. Let’s look at each element in detail.
Alcoholic Fermentation
Alcoholic fermentation is the defining process of winemaking, it is what transforms grape juice into wine. The chemistry is straightforward:
How Fermentation Works
Yeast cells consume the sugars naturally present in grape juice. As they do, they multiply, producing alcohol, CO₂, and a wide range of other by-products (esters, aldehydes, higher alcohols) that contribute to the wine’s aroma and flavour complexity.
Fermentation typically takes between one and four weeks, depending on the temperature and style of wine. It stops naturally when either all the sugar has been consumed (producing a dry wine) or when the alcohol level reaches about 15–16% (at which point the alcohol itself becomes toxic to the yeast and kills it).
The winemaker can also stop fermentation deliberately before all the sugar is consumed, by chilling the wine rapidly (to stun the yeast), by filtering the yeast out, or by adding spirit (as in fortified wine production). Stopping fermentation early leaves residual sugar in the wine, producing a sweet or off-dry style.
The Role of Yeast
Yeast is the engine of fermentation. The winemaker’s choice of yeast is a significant stylistic decision:
Cultured (Selected) Yeast
Commercially produced yeast strains, selected for specific characteristics. The winemaker adds them directly to the grape juice. This gives:
- Reliability: cultured yeasts are predictable. They start fermenting quickly and finish cleanly.
- Control: different strains produce different aroma profiles. A winemaker can choose a strain that enhances tropical fruit aromas (for Sauvignon Blanc, for example) or one that is neutral (to let the fruit character dominate).
- Lower risk: less chance of stuck or faulty fermentation.
Wild (Indigenous / Ambient) Yeast
Natural yeasts that are present on grape skins, in the winery environment, and in the vineyard. Instead of adding cultured yeast, the winemaker allows fermentation to start spontaneously with whatever yeasts are naturally present.
- Complexity: multiple strains of wild yeast may be active during fermentation, each contributing different flavour compounds. Proponents argue this produces more complex, terroir-expressive wines.
- Risk: wild yeast fermentations are less predictable. They may start slowly, get stuck (stop before all sugar is consumed), or produce off-flavours.
- Association with quality: many prestigious estates (especially in Burgundy, the Rhône, and among natural wine producers worldwide) prefer wild yeast fermentations.
Exam Tip
Know both approaches and their trade-offs. Cultured yeast = reliable, clean, controllable. Wild yeast = potentially more complex but higher risk. The exam may ask you to explain why a producer might choose one over the other.
Temperature Control During Fermentation
Fermentation generates heat. If not controlled, this heat can damage the wine, killing the yeast (causing a stuck fermentation) or producing cooked, stewed flavours. Temperature control is therefore essential.
Cool Fermentation (12–18°C)
Used primarily for white and rosé wines. Cool temperatures slow down fermentation, which preserves delicate, fruity, floral aromas. Wines fermented cool tend to be fresh, fruit-forward, and aromatic. This is standard practice for most commercial Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and similar styles.
Warm Fermentation (20–30°C)
Used for red wines. Higher temperatures are needed to extract colour, tannin, and flavour from the grape skins (reds are fermented with their skins in contact with the juice). Warmer fermentation also produces different aroma compounds, less primary fruit, more complex, spicy, savoury notes.
Very high temperatures (above ~35°C) risk killing the yeast and producing unpleasant cooked flavours.
Temperature control equipment: Most modern wineries use stainless steel tanks with cooling jackets: double-walled tanks through which cold water can be circulated to control temperature precisely. This was one of the most important technological advances in 20th-century winemaking, particularly in warm climates where fermentation temperatures could previously be very difficult to manage.
Malolactic Fermentation (MLF)
Despite its name, malolactic fermentation is not a true fermentation, it is a bacterial conversion. Bacteria (usually Oenococcus oeni) convert malic acid (sharp, green-apple-like) into lactic acid (softer, rounder, dairy-like). CO₂ is also produced, but in tiny quantities.
What MLF Does to the Wine
- Reduces acidity: lactic acid is perceived as less sharp than malic acid, so the wine tastes softer and rounder
- Changes mouthfeel: the wine gains a creamier, more buttery texture
- Adds flavour: MLF can produce diacetyl, a compound associated with buttery aromas. This is part of what gives oaked Chardonnay its characteristic buttery richness.
- Stabilises the wine: once MLF is complete, the malic acid cannot convert later (which could cause unwanted fizz or cloudiness in bottle)
When MLF Is Used
Exam Angle
The key exam concept is: MLF softens acidity and adds creaminess. If a question describes a wine as having "buttery" or "creamy" character, MLF is likely involved. If a wine is described as "crisp," "zesty," or having "green apple acidity," MLF has probably been avoided. Always connect the process to the sensory outcome.
Fermentation and Maturation Vessels
The vessel in which wine is fermented and/or aged has a significant impact on the final wine. Each type of vessel contributes differently to the wine’s flavour, texture, and development.
Stainless Steel
The workhorse of modern winemaking. Stainless steel is inert: it does not interact with or add any flavour to the wine. This makes it ideal when the winemaker wants to preserve pure fruit character and freshness.
- Temperature control: easy to control with cooling jackets
- Hygiene: easy to clean, reducing risk of bacterial contamination
- Cost: durable and reusable indefinitely; cost-effective over time
- Airtight: minimal oxygen exposure, preserving freshness
Used for: Most white wines, rosés, and many reds (especially for fermentation, even if the wine is later aged in oak).
Oak Barrels
Oak is the most important alternative to stainless steel. It affects wine in three distinct ways:
- Flavour contribution: oak imparts specific aromas and flavours to the wine, including vanilla, toast, cedar, clove, coconut, caramel, and smoke. The specific flavours depend on the origin and treatment of the oak.
- Tannin contribution: oak adds tannins to the wine. Oak tannins are different from grape tannins, they tend to be finer and silkier, adding structure without harshness.
- Controlled oxygen exposure: oak barrels are slightly porous, allowing tiny amounts of oxygen to reach the wine over time. This micro-oxygenation softens tannins, stabilises colour, and promotes complexity. It is why barrel-aged wines develop more complex, evolved flavours than tank-aged wines.
Key Oak Variables
Oak Alternatives
For producers who want some oak character without the cost of barrels, there are cheaper alternatives:
- Oak chips: small pieces of toasted oak added to wine in a stainless steel tank. The cheapest option. Adds flavour quickly (weeks rather than months) but without the micro-oxygenation benefit of barrels.
- Oak staves: larger pieces of oak suspended inside a tank. A step up from chips, providing more controlled flavour extraction.
- Inner staves / oak inserts: placed inside old, neutral barrels to give them a "second life" of flavour contribution.
Oak alternatives are widely used for everyday wines. They are generally prohibited in the production of premium appellation wines in Europe (e.g., you cannot use oak chips in Bordeaux Grand Cru wine).
Concrete
Concrete tanks (sometimes egg-shaped) are experiencing a revival. Like stainless steel, concrete is largely inert (it does not add flavour), but it is slightly porous, providing gentle micro-oxygenation similar to old oak barrels. Concrete also has natural insulating properties, maintaining a stable temperature. Some winemakers believe concrete promotes a distinctive textural quality. Used by producers in Bordeaux, the Rhône, and increasingly in the New World.
Amphora (Clay)
Clay vessels are the oldest winemaking containers, dating back thousands of years to Georgia’s qvevri tradition. Modern winemakers are rediscovering them for their unique properties: clay is porous (like oak, allowing micro-oxygenation), adds a subtle earthy character, and is seen as the most "natural" vessel. Amphora-aged wines are associated with the natural wine movement and with producers seeking to express terroir without any oak influence.
Ageing on Lees
Lees are the dead yeast cells and other solid particles that settle to the bottom of a wine vessel after fermentation. Far from being waste, lees are a powerful winemaking tool that significantly affects wine texture and flavour.
Types of Lees
- Gross lees: the heavy sediment (grape skin fragments, seeds, dead cells) that settles immediately after fermentation. Usually removed quickly because they can produce unpleasant sulphury odours.
- Fine lees: the lighter yeast sediment that remains suspended or settles slowly over weeks and months. This is the beneficial kind.
What Lees Contact Does
When wine is kept in contact with fine lees over time, the yeast cells gradually break down (a process called autolysis). This releases compounds into the wine that affect it in several important ways:
- Creamier, rounder texture: lees release mannoproteins and other compounds that add body and a silky mouthfeel
- Biscuit, bread, brioche aromas: these yeasty, bready notes are classic markers of lees contact. They are particularly important in Champagne (where wines age on lees for years) and in Muscadet sur lie
- Greater complexity: lees-aged wines tend to show more layered, nuanced flavours than wines racked off lees early
- Improved stability: compounds released by lees can help protect wine from oxidation
Bâtonnage (Lees Stirring)
Some winemakers regularly stir the fine lees back into suspension, a technique called bâtonnage (bâton is French for "stick"). This increases the interaction between the lees and the wine, accelerating the effects described above. It is particularly common in the production of barrel-fermented Chardonnay (white Burgundy being the benchmark) and some traditional-method sparkling wines.
Sulphur Dioxide (SO₂)
Sulphur dioxide is the most important preservative in winemaking. It has been used for centuries and is almost universal, even most organic wines use some SO₂. Understanding its role is important for the exam.
What SO₂ Does
- Antioxidant: SO₂ protects wine from oxidation by reacting with oxygen before it can damage the wine. Without SO₂, wine would brown and develop stale, flat flavours much more quickly.
- Antimicrobial: SO₂ kills or inhibits unwanted bacteria and wild yeasts that could spoil the wine or cause refermentation in bottle.
- Preserves freshness: by preventing both oxidation and microbial spoilage, SO₂ allows wine to remain fresh and stable for longer.
When SO₂ Is Added
SO₂ may be added at multiple points: to the grapes shortly after harvest (to prevent premature oxidation and wild yeast activity), during winemaking (after fermentation, to protect the new wine), and at bottling (to ensure stability during storage and transport).
Clarification and Stabilisation
Before bottling, most wines are clarified (made visually clear) and stabilised (protected against haze, deposits, or refermentation in bottle). These processes are routine but represent important winemaker decisions.
Racking
Transferring wine from one vessel to another, leaving the sediment (lees) behind. This is the gentlest form of clarification and may be done several times during maturation. Each racking also exposes the wine to a small amount of oxygen, which can help the wine develop and soften tannins.
Fining
Adding a fining agent to the wine. The agent binds to specific unwanted particles (suspended solids, tannins, proteins, or colour compounds) and settles to the bottom, where it is removed. Common fining agents include:
- Bentonite: a clay that removes proteins (preventing haze in white wines). The most common fining agent.
- Egg whites: traditionally used for red wines. They soften harsh tannins and clarify the wine gently. Classic in Bordeaux.
- Casein (milk protein), removes browning and some off-flavours from white wines.
- PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone), a synthetic agent that removes browning compounds.
- Isinglass (fish protein) and gelatin: used for gentle clarification.
Note: the use of animal-derived fining agents (egg whites, casein, isinglass, gelatin) means that many wines are not technically vegan, even though no animal products remain in the finished wine. Some producers now use plant-based or mineral alternatives to produce vegan-certified wines.
Filtration
Passing the wine through a filter to remove particles. Filtration can range from coarse (removing only large particles) to sterile (removing virtually all yeast and bacteria). Sterile filtration is important for wines with residual sugar, because any remaining yeast could cause refermentation in bottle.
The debate: Some quality-focused producers choose to bottle their wines unfined and unfiltered, believing that fining and filtration strip out flavour, texture, and complexity. These wines may throw a natural sediment in bottle and may appear slightly hazy, but proponents argue they are more complete and expressive. This is more common among top Burgundy, northern Rhône, and natural wine producers.
Cold Stabilisation
Chilling the wine to near-freezing temperatures for a period (usually a few days to a couple of weeks). This causes tartrate crystals (harmless potassium bitartrate) to form and precipitate out. If this is not done, the crystals may form later in the bottle, alarming consumers who mistake them for glass shards or sugar. Cold stabilisation is cosmetic, the crystals are completely harmless and have no effect on flavour.
Blending
Blending is one of the winemaker’s most important tools. Most wines are blends of some kind, if not of different grape varieties, then of different vineyard parcels, fermentation vessels, or maturation treatments.
Why Blend?
- Complexity: combining different components creates a wine with more layers than any single component alone
- Balance: one lot may bring acidity, another fruit richness, another tannic structure. Together they produce a more balanced whole.
- Consistency: blending across vineyards or vintages helps maintain a house style year after year (important for non-vintage Champagne, for example)
- Insurance: in variable climates (like Bordeaux), planting multiple varieties and blending means that the failure of one variety in a particular vintage can be compensated by another
Types of Blending
- Varietal blending: combining different grape varieties (Bordeaux blend, GSM blend, Champagne blend)
- Parcel blending: combining lots from different vineyard plots, even of the same variety (common in Burgundy)
- Oak/vessel blending: combining wine aged in different proportions of new/old oak or in different vessel types
- Vintage blending: combining wine from different years (Champagne NV, Sherry solera, some Port styles)
Bottling
Bottling is the final step in winemaking. While it might seem straightforward, several decisions at this stage affect the wine’s quality and longevity:
Closure
The choice of closure affects the wine’s ageing trajectory:
- Natural cork: traditional, allows micro-oxygenation (slow oxygen exchange through the cork), which aids development. Risk: cork taint (TCA contamination), which affects roughly 2–5% of bottles sealed with natural cork.
- Screw cap (Stelvin): creates a near-perfect seal with virtually no oxygen transmission. Eliminates cork taint. Ideal for wines meant to be drunk fresh. Now also used for some ageworthy wines (widespread in New Zealand and Australia). The debate about long-term ageing under screw cap vs cork continues.
- Synthetic cork: no cork taint risk, but may allow more oxygen transmission than natural cork. Used mainly for wines intended for early consumption.
- Glass stopper (Vino-Lok): inert and elegant, but expensive. Niche use.
Timing
When the wine is bottled affects its final character. Wine that spends more time in barrel before bottling absorbs more oak character and undergoes more micro-oxygenation. Wine bottled earlier retains more primary fruit character. Many appellation laws specify minimum maturation periods before bottling is permitted (e.g., Rioja Reserva requires a minimum total of 36 months, with at least 12 in oak).
Bottle Ageing
After bottling, wine continues to evolve. In the sealed environment of the bottle, the wine undergoes slow chemical changes:
- Tannins polymerise (join together in longer chains), becoming softer and silkier
- Primary fruit aromas evolve into secondary and tertiary aromas (leather, earth, mushroom, dried fruit, tobacco)
- Colour changes, reds evolve from deep purple to garnet to tawny; whites deepen from pale to gold to amber
Not all wines benefit from bottle ageing. Most of the world’s wine is made to be drunk within a year or two of release. But the finest wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, Riesling, vintage Port, and similar regions can develop beautifully over decades.
What the Exam Expects You to Know
- The basic process of alcoholic fermentation (sugar + yeast → alcohol + CO₂)
- The difference between cultured and wild yeast, and the trade-offs of each
- Why temperature control during fermentation matters, and how it differs for whites vs reds
- What malolactic fermentation is, what it does to the wine, and when it is used vs avoided
- The properties of stainless steel, oak, concrete, and amphora as fermentation/maturation vessels
- Key oak variables: origin (French/American), size, new vs old, toast level
- What ageing on lees does to a wine, and what bâtonnage is
- The role of sulphur dioxide
- Clarification methods: racking, fining, filtration, and cold stabilisation
- Why winemakers blend, and the different types of blending
- Closure types and their implications
- How all of these winemaking decisions affect cost and price
Short Answer Strategy
Winemaking questions are always about connecting process to outcome. Don’t just describe what a technique is, explain what it does to the wine you taste. "Barrel fermentation and ageing in new French oak barriques for 12 months, with regular bâtonnage, gives this Chardonnay its full body, creamy texture, and vanilla and toast complexity, while the controlled micro-oxygenation through the barrel’s pores softens the structure and integrates the oak."
Active Recall Prompts
Close this page and try to answer these from memory:
- Write the alcoholic fermentation equation from memory.
- What is the difference between cultured and wild yeast? Give one advantage of each.
- Why are white wines fermented at cooler temperatures than red wines?
- Explain malolactic fermentation. What does it do to acidity and mouthfeel?
- Name three wine styles where MLF is typically used and two where it is avoided.
- Compare French and American oak. How does each affect the wine differently?
- Why does the proportion of new oak used matter so much?
- What is lees ageing and what does it contribute to a wine’s character?
- Describe three common fining agents and what each one removes from wine.
- Why would a producer choose to bottle unfined and unfiltered?
- Give three reasons why winemakers blend wines.
- Compare natural cork and screw cap closures, what are the advantages of each?